The necropolis in Canosa has provided splendid examples of the refinement of women’s jewelry in the Hellenistic period. This diadem features exuberant, richly inventive decoration typical of the floral style developed by Greek goldsmiths in southern Italy, especially Taranto, in the 3rd century BC. Palmettes, rosettes, and intertwining foliage form a tracery in gold and enamel, worthy of the finest lace. The piece is dotted with tiny colored glass beads.
The diadem’s decoration is extraordinarily inventive and technically accomplished, comprising an openwork tracery of luxuriant stems dotted with palmettes, rosettes, foliage, and a variety of flowers. The motifs are intertwined like fine lace, highlighted with gold filigree work, blue enamel, and berries made from green, white, and blue pâte de verre. The piece is clearly the work of a Greek goldsmith influenced by Oriental styles and jewelry created for the royal court of Macedonia in the 4th century BC. The diadem is typical of the naturalistic decorative style seen in northern Greek jewelry and precious metalwork from 375-350 BC.
The diadem was made during the Hellenistic period, in the 3rd century BC, by a goldsmith active at Canosa in southern Italy, or possibly a workshop in Taranto. Greek metalworking flourished in Apulia during this period; women’s jewelry based on northern Greek designs using abundant flowers and foliage was especially popular. Items made in Taranto were exported throughout the surrounding region, as well as to Campania and Etruria. The innovative workshops of Taranto pioneered the reduction of the base plate to a plain background, focusing our attention solely on the scrolling, openwork design.
Reference:The Louvre